You record a few clips beside a window. In one, the walls look neutral. In the next, they look slightly yellow—even though you haven’t moved.
Automatic white balance may be adjusting as the composition changes. It’s helpful when the light changes, but those adjustments can become distracting within a shot or between clips.
Use Auto when you’re moving through different lighting. Use a fixed manual white balance when the lighting stays consistent, and you want the colors to stay consistent too.
What white balance actually changes
White balance adjusts how the camera renders the color of the light. It helps a white shirt look white rather than orange under a warm lamp or blue in open shade.
It won’t solve a face that’s too dark against a bright window. That’s primarily an exposure and lighting problem, which we cover in our Pocket 3 exposure guide.
You also don’t have to remove every trace of warmth. A sunset can still look warm. The aim is a result that suits the scene, with skin tones you’re happy with.
When Auto is the practical choice
Keep **AWB—Auto White Balance—**on for casual recording when you move between different light sources.
A walking tour might take you from daylight into a shop, then back outside. Auto can adapt without making you stop to choose a new setting each time.
The tradeoff is that it may also respond when the light hasn’t meaningfully changed. A different background, a colorful object entering the frame, or a pan toward a window can influence its estimate.
If you notice an unwanted color shift, try a fixed setting for that scene. You don’t need to abandon Auto for the whole trip.
When manual white balance is worth using
A fixed setting is useful for a talking-head video, a product demonstration, or several clips recorded under the same lights.
For example, if you’re filming yourself at a desk, you probably want your face and the wall behind you to keep the same color as you pick up different objects. Manual white balance removes automatic white-balance changes from that setup.
It is also useful when capturing several angles that you’ll edit together. Keep the lighting consistent and use the same value across those shots, then recheck whenever the light changes.
A fixed setting won’t compensate if sunlight disappears behind clouds or you move under a different lamp. Consistency depends on the light as well as the camera setting.
How to set it on Pocket 3
In the camera view, swipe left from the right edge of the screen, enable PRO, and open White Balance. Choose AWB or M for manual adjustment.
Manual white balance and manual exposure are separate controls. You can fix white balance while leaving exposure automatic.
To choose a manual value:
- Put a neutral gray card in the same light as your subject. A matte white object can help if you don’t have one, though its material may introduce a color cast.
- Frame it with your subject, avoiding glare or an overexposed white patch.
- Adjust the Kelvin value until the neutral reference looks reasonably neutral, then check skin tones.
- Remove the reference and record a short test. Keep the value for shots under that same lighting.
This is a visual adjustment, not an automatic gray-card measurement function. The small screen can be difficult to judge, so review an important test clip on a larger display.
Which Kelvin value should you try?
Use these as rough starting points for neutral-looking color, not universal presets:
| Main light on the subject | Approximate starting range |
| Warm tungsten or tungsten-like light | 2800–3200K |
| Neutral-white LED lighting | 4000–4500K, or the fixture’s stated value |
| Direct daylight or daylight-balanced lighting | 5200–5600K |
| Overcast daylight or open shade | 6000–7500K |
Actual lamps, weather, reflected light, and the look you want can all change the right choice.
At the camera, raising the Kelvin setting makes the same scene look warmer; lowering it makes it look cooler. If the picture looks too orange, try lowering the value. If it looks too blue, try raising it.
Don’t confuse that adjustment with the color of a light source: a lower-temperature lamp produces warmer light, which the camera compensates for with a lower Kelvin setting.
Mixed lighting: choose what lights the subject
Suppose daylight hits one side of your face while a warm lamp lights the other. A single Kelvin value cannot make both sources neutral at once.
Try turning off the lamp, moving away from the window, or using lights with similar color temperatures. Then balance for the light falling on your subject.
A warm lamp in the background can remain warm while the face looks natural. The background doesn’t have to match the subject perfectly.
If skin looks green or magenta, changing Kelvin may not solve it. That can involve a tint or light-spectrum problem. Try another light source or correct the remaining cast in an editor.
Can you fix it afterward?
A mild, consistent color cast is usually easier to correct than color that changes during the clip. That’s one reason to fix white balance for a controlled setup.
D-Log M gives you options for color work, but it doesn’t record RAW video or make white balance irrelevant. Large corrections may produce uneven or unnatural results. See our Normal vs. D-Log M guide before choosing your color workflow.
A simple habit for your next shoot
Leave Auto on for an outing with changing light. For a planned scene, set your subject and lights first, choose a fixed white balance, and record ten seconds before the main take.
When you move somewhere else, check it again. Leaving an indoor setting active outside is an easy way to create a new color problem.
Where do you notice unwanted color most: indoor lighting, shade, or clips that change color while recording? Let us know in the comments.


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How to Fix Videos That Look Too Bright or Too Dark on DJI Osmo Pocket 3